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December in Puerto
Vallarta
 Well,
it sure beats December in Tacoma or just about any place else I can think
of, except maybe the Caribbean. It is a very satisfying feeling to hear
rumors of snow back home and blizzards in the Midwest as we sit on the
beach with a good book. Not to rub it in, but we’re having a great time
here!
We had one small bit of bureaucratic
excitement as we tried to leave Mazatlan. We must check in and out with
every Capitan de Puerto as we travel, but this time there was another boat
named Raven with two people aboard leaving the same marina on the same
day. The port captain can be forgiven for being confused about that, but
the result is that the other boat got their papers, and we didn’t. We
were delayed a day, but in the big scheme of things, it was amusing, not
tragic, and hey, we’re mellow! Since we are following the same course as
the other boat, we have now become ‘Raven Gig Harbor’ and they are
‘Raven Alameda’.
  The
trip from Mazatlan to Puerto Vallarta is about 200 miles. We motored one
long day to get to Isla Isabela, a national wildlife preserve famous for
its frigate birds and blue-footed boobies. The frigates were so numerous
and tame that they barely noticed as we walked past. Many of the males
were in full mating plumage, with enlarged red neck pouches. Well,
whatever turns female frigate birds on, I guess. There was also excellent
snorkeling and whale watching. Could these be the same humpback whales
that we knew in Alaska?
On south to a small harbor called Chacala,
which seemed to be a Mexican holiday spot in a jungly cove. After the dry
areas of Baja and Mazatlan, it was a real treat to see so many palms and
fruit trees growing on the hillsides. We were sorry that we couldn’t
stay longer. Perhaps on our trip back north we can spend some time at all
these places.
 At
sea we put out the fishing tackle again to see what would happen. As Jan
says: ten minutes to rig the rod, ten minutes to catch the fish, ten
minutes to bring him in, and an hour to clean the fish and the boat. By
this time, Jan has discovered that fish cleaning in the nude minimizes the
mess. It also makes him extra attentive with the knife
(fortunately, the photos didn’t get past the censors). When we got into
PV we invited friends to share our catch, a beautiful 12-lb. bonito,
thinking it would be a real treat. I should have suspected something when
the recipe book said, “If you have been at sea for a long time and have
run out of fresh food, even bonito will taste good.” Well, that’s what
we caught,
 and
it was awful! How embarrassing. We all had a good laugh and just increased
the level of margaritas and hors d’ouevres.
We arrived in Puerto Vallarta on December
2nd and are staying at the aptly-named Paradise Village Marina.
There are people who sailed in two years ago, with ambitions to sail
around the world, and have never left. We have access to all the hotel
amenities:
three
 pools,
huge beach, restaurants, shops, a small zoo (with tigers and their cubs),
and (tah-dah) a SPA! We are not suffering at all, but are determined not
to be among The Ones Who Never Left. We are a half-hour bus or taxi ride
from downtown Puerto Vallarta, but it’s an easy trip and keeps us out of
the hustle and bustle of the town. Many people have their boats decorated
for Christmas with lights, small trees and one boat even has a singing
Santa on the bow.
 Our
good friend Patty Ecklebe stayed with us for a few days and joined in the
Mexican fun.
 One
night we went in town to watch the procession to the cathedral
commemorating the appearance of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Procession and bells in Puerto Vallarta (638K)
Every night from
December 1st to the 12th there is a huge candlelight
procession of the faithful down the streets of town. There are thousands
of participants and thousands of families watching — quite an
awe-inspiring sight. Christmas doesn’t seem to be such an extravaganza,
but more a time for families to be together. We are seeing lots of
gatherings on the beach of grandparents, parents and children all eating,
drinking and
 having
a great time. Gifts are given to the children on January 6th,
Three Kings Day. The town is full of piñatas, and I was itching to buy
one but couldn’t figure a way to get it into the overhead bin.
We are now in Tacoma to spend Christmas
with Jan’s Mom, and to see friends, then down to San Francisco to see
Paul, Michelle and their new puppy, Cabo. After being away from all the
holiday frenzy and stress of life here, we can’t say we’re in a huge
rush to get back to it. Back on Raven, it’s mornings doing projects,
followed by lunch on the beach, a book and a nap, and drinks and dinner
with friends. Not a bad schedule, and we’re going to stick with it until
we get bored. Then there is always exploring, fishing, sailing, and maybe
even doing some of the many creative projects I brought along and
haven’t touched. Life is good. We hope this Christmas season finds you
with those you love doing a bit of relaxing in whatever way you do best.
Feliz Navidad y Prospero Anno Nuevo!
With love to all of you,
Signe and Jan
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